The first time we went to Pfalz, it was just a quick stop-over on the way to the Vosges. We pulled into Bärenbrunnerhof late at night and crashed out, waking up to a farm nestled amongst sandstone crags. After accosting some more prepared people and photographing a page or two from a guidebook, we wandered up Klosterwand on Klosterfels - a nice multipitch overlooking the farmhouse. While a little more wanderery than we thought, and needing a little more gear to supplement the bolts than we expected, being back on sandstone in the sun was great. And lunch back at the farmhouse cafe was great too!
We pushed on to the Vosges (only to find the Martinswand still under a foot or three of snow!), but we decided we'd have to come back to Pfalz sometime with more time to spare and maybe even a guideboook...
Klosterwand, and below, Jen enjoying the topout, and looking back at the guesthouse
So... this easter, back we went.
We explored a few crags around Dahn, Erfweiler and Bundenthal. It's got a great selection of sandstone pillars and bluffs, just asking
for you to throw some gear into them. It's mainly trad climbing, at least in the lower grades, once you get up to around 7 (UIAA, not French), there are a fair number of bolted climbs. The weather was not so great... but even in the rain there were people heading out to climb and the rock dried fairly fast too.
Of the crags around Dahn we hit up, Hochstein and Buttelfels were probably the pick.
People in the area were friendly too - we even got taken home for coffe and cake by some locals.
a Turn near Bundenthal
Some of the old school iron work
Mark on PK-Kante
Jen leading up the Hochsteinnadel
To get there: 5-7 hour drive (depending on traffic out of Amsterdam, food breaks etc)
To stay: There's a campsite in Dahn, but Baerenbrunerhof has a campsite many climbers use. It's basic in terms of facilities but cheap, and close to plenty of climbing, as well as being in a scenic spot and having a nice cafe http://www.baerenbrunnerhof.de/ However, campers or caravans aren't allowed!
Guidebook: There's a good, recent (2007) guidebook - in German. But it has plenty of drawn topos and photos and is quite easy to use (even when you're as Germanically challenged as us) see here for a list http://www.pfaelzer-kletterer.de/content/_inhalt/pfalz/p_lit.htm
Plenty of castles and apparently a good baths/swimming pool/sauna complex at Dahn for a rest day if you need one